28) Growing “winter cauliflower”

Introduction:

In the mid of summer you can sow “winter cauliflower” in the garden. The plants resist some degrees of frost. When hard frost is expected, put each plant in a big plastic flower pot. During hard freezing weather put each pot with plant under a roof or in a barn. At no freezing, you can put the pot + plant back in the garden soil.

From my first experiments, I grow rather small winter cauliflowers.

In 2014, I decided to sow earlier; in May or June (instead of July or August as to read on the package).

Sowing is easier using a “shift fall tray”. Replanting goes well with replanting tubes.

.

Allotment garden 2014/2015.

wiblk77

wiblk78

Two winter cauliflower plants at August 16 (photo above) and November 2 (photo below). Sowing dates are June 15 (left one) and May 20 (right one).

The right plant has been removed in January 2015, because it grew “strange”.

20150505

This is a photo of the survival plant, at May 1, 2015. No cauliflower present yet.

wiblk90

wiblk91

Just nine days later, on May 10 2015, the cauliflower has grown big. Its weight is 660 grams.

.

.

Backyard garden 2014/2015.

20141115

Photo of 3 winter cauliflower plants in my backyardgarden at november 2, 2014. The biggest plant (on the left) has been sown at May 20, 2014. Two other plants, on the right at June 15 2014.

wiblk84At April 26, 2015 same three plants.

wiblk85 wiblk86

At April 26, 2015 too, the right (first sown) plant has a cauliflower of about 4 inch diameter. I removed the eating caterpillar and pushed some leaves together to keep the cauliflower in the dark during growing. When exposed to daylight, the cauliflower turns into yellow. The leaves were kept together with a clamp.

wiblk87

wiblk88

wiblk89

At May 5,  2015 I harvested the same cauliflower of 700 grams. At the last photo you see where the Caterpillar has eaten.

.

At may 9, 2015 I harvested the cauliflower of the middle plant; a big white one that weighed about 700 grams.

.

The last one (too late)

wiblk92

Whnen you wait too long, you can harvest a “loose” cauliflower, as shown on these photos. It is the cauliflower of the left plant.

.

Conclusions:

 

.

 

 

 

Below the Original tip.

In spring next year you have (small) cauliflowers, diameter about 5 inch.

.

A)# Species

For “winter cauliflower” there are special species. In Europe we can use this species.

.

B)# Sowing time

In Europe, “winter cauliflower” is sown in the garden in summer, in June or July. When sowing later, plants will be small before winter. In spring there will be (very) small cauliflowers.

.

C)# Sowing

Use a scoop to loosen the soil. Mix the soil with manure or compost and agricultural lime. Make a furrow, 3 inch wide, 1.5 to 2 inch deep.

Poor water in the furrow. Use a watering can with fine shower.

Strew cauliflower seeds in a white tray so you can clearly see the seeds. Use tweezers, fingers or a cocktail stick with moist point to lay the seeds in the furrow.

Use a lat with distance marks. Sow groups of 3 or 4 seeds. Distance between groups is about 6 inch.

Then strew moist crumbled earth in the furrow on the seeds. Layer thickness is about 1/6  to 1/4 inch.

After sowing, weather can be bad for germination; warm, dry or downpours. So lay some wooden boards, plastic plate or corrugated plate over the furrow. Lay some bricks on to prevent from blowing away.

After 3 to 8 days plants are visible. Then remove the plates or boards. When needed, water the plants using a can with fine shower head. Use cold water.

.

D)# Thinning

This photo shows cauliflower plants, 3 weeks after sowing. Each 6 inch there is a group with 1,2,3 or 4 plants.

Use a small knife or metal blade to remove some plants at each group, until 2 plants left per group. These 2 plants are the biggest ones.

After thinning, water the plants using a can with fine shower head.

.

E)# Planting out time

4 To 6 weeks after sowing, plants are big enough to plant out. Plant out at cool rainy weather.

If you did not sow yourself, you can buy winter cauliflower plants in a garden shop in summer. In Europe this is beween July 15 and August 15.

.

F)# Planting location

Put the cauliflower plants on a windy location in your garden to have less plant diseases.

.

G)# Watering the plants before planting out

Water plants and soil at least 30 minutes before planting. Use a watering can with fine shower. Add much water to the plants and the soil around the plants.

.

H)# Planting in big flower pots in the garden soil

You better put the small cauliflower plants in big plastic flower pots. Before the cold winter time you can take the plants out of the garden soil easily.  Put the pots with plants under a roof or in a barn and put them back in the garden in spring.

Putting small plants in pots is much easier than taking the large plants with big root balls out of the soil and putting them in the flower pots, later. That is a hard job and you can loose much earth from the root ball.

wiblk53

Use plastic flower pots, heighth and top diameter about 25 to 30 cm, (10 to 12 inch). I try flower pots with “open” bottom. Make a hole and put the pot in the garden soil.

wiblk54

Put some garden earth, manure or compost and Agricultural lime in the flower pot. Mix it with a spade. Put some more soil etc in the pot and mix again.

wiblk55

Continue until flower pot is filled.

wiblk56

Put a bulb planter in the middle of the earth in the pot. Depth about 4 to 6 inch (10 to 15 cm). Then take the planter with earth out of the soil.

.

Push the point of a scoop in the garden soil, in a circle around the cauliflower plant. Then use the scoop to take out the plant with a (big) root ball.

Are 2 plants close to each other then you can take out one plant with a big root ball and one plant with a small root ball. I think that big and small root balls will result in big cauliflower plants.

This photo shows a cauliflower plant with a big root ball.

On this photo you see a plant with a small root ball.

wiblk57

Put the plant in the soil in the flower pot: hold the plant at the right height. Fill the space around and below the root ball with earth from the garden or from the bulb planter. Put the plant deep in the soil. The plant will not be blown down so easy then.

Next step is putting some pieces of manure around the stem of the plant. When you have a small heap of manure in the garden, you can pick flat pieces from the top of the heap.

Flat pieces of manure.

wiblk58 Lay pieces of manure around the plant against the stem. Thickness about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (0,5 to 1 cm).

wiblk59

Pour cold water in the flower pot around the plant and have the water “diappear” into the soil.

.

I)# Remarks

  • Put the plants rather deep in the soil.  Then they will not be blown down by hard winds.
  • Cabbage plants use much nourishment. So mix manure or compost in the soil.
  • By mixing agricultural lime there is less risk of the plant disease “Clubroot”
  • Plants grow slow in dried out soil. So regularly pour much water in the flower pot edge to water the plants.
  • The “slices” of manure prevent the soil from drying out too fast. During watering, nutritious matter from the manure goes towards the roots of the plant.  The slices of manure help against the cabbage fly. Maggots of the cabbage fly will not pass the slices of manure.  At least that is my exprience.

.

J)# Putting in my back garden

1nov6

In late autumn, put the flower pots with big plants into the soil of the back garden. At least that’s what I do.

But when you have a frost-proof room at your garden, you can keep the pots in the garden soil.

.

K)# Putting under a roof or in a frost-free room

Before a long freezing period, take the pots with plants out of the soil. Put them under a roof or in a frost-proof room.

.

L)# Back in the garden soil

At the end of a (long) freezing period, when the soil is not frozen anymore, you can put the pots with plants back in the garden soil. Put the pots in the “original” holes in the soil.

.

M)# Growing and harvest

In spring, plants start growing again. Most leaves look fresh and healty again. Remove some yellow coloured leaves.

The plants will not be so big as the “normal” cauliflower plants that grow in spring and summer.

wiblk47

Take care that you can give the plants lots of cold water during next growth.

Put the flower pots with plants some deeper in the garden soil.  Press the earth against the outer side of the pots. And the ground in the pot is about 1 inch lower than the edge.

wiblk48

Regularly water the plants with cold water.

wiblk49

Half spring first cauliflowers are visible.

wiblk50

Cover the cauliflower to overcome colouring to yellow. Some leaves have been bent together and a clamp has been put on it. This clamp is the same as used for my bean tunnel (tip 11).

wiblk51

Some days later you can harvest. When you wait to long, the structure of the cauliflower will get “loose”.

wiblk52

This is my harvest of 2013 from 5 plants. One big cauliflower and 4 loose ones. The loose cauliflowers should have been harvested earlier.  Next season I’m going to sow some weeks earlier. I have already edited the tekst of the sowing date.

Advertisements
This entry was posted in cauliflower. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s